Mali used to have a significant tourism industry, attracting hundreds of thousands of
visitors annually, especially to Timbuktu and the Dogon Country. This industry
dramatically declined after 2012, starting with a huge influx of weapons entering the
country from Libya after Omar Qaddafi was deposed. Jihadists, kidnappers and
criminals (these groups overlap) were then empowered to wreak havoc and take over
businesses (such as mining) to continue to finance their illegal activities. In addition,
Malian fighters who had previously served in Qaddafi's forces used Libyan weapons to
overthrow the democratic government, exacerbating the chaos. First the no-go zone for
tourists was in the northern part of the country, but it has extended almost to all regions
and the situation is volatile.
It’s still possible to travel to Bamako as it has been essentially an island of stability,
though over the last few years there have been some terrorist attacks. The city is
definitely worth visiting, if for no other reason than to learn about the incredibly rich
cultures of Mali, as residents, businesses and artists from all parts of the country live
here. There are many markets, monuments, museums, handicraft shops, musical
venues and colorful festivals to experience. There’s an energy in the city that is exciting
to tap into and a population who is welcoming to visitors.
Why Did We Go to Bamako?
I have always wanted to go to Mali, as I love the many musical genres from there. I kept
telling friends we should go to the Festival of the Desert. It started in 2001 but ended in
2012 because of instability in the country. As it took place in January, it was hard to take
vacation that early in the year and I never made it. My wife Khadija visited some of the
regions in the 1990s as part of her work with the United Nations. We decided this was
the time for us to see the condition of the country and felt it was safe to go to Bamako
after discussing it with friends who knew the country well.
Where is Bamako?
Bamako is in southwest Mali, straddling both sides of the wide Niger River. It’s the
capital and largest city of Mali, with a population of around three million.
Mali is landlocked and surrounded by seven countries: Algeria to the north, Niger to the
east, Burkina Faso to the southeast, Ivory Coast to the south, Guinea to the southwest,
and Senegal and Mauritania to the west.
How to Get Around Bamako?
We used a guide for Bamako, Ahmed Ag Mohamed (WhatsApp +223 77 34 79 99), who
was resourceful, personable and flexible.
A visitor doesn’t need a guide to see the main attractions in the city (beware that many
do not show up in Google Maps) and can take inexpensive taxis to get around.
However, we were looking for off-the-beaten-path places and trying to take particular
types of photos and found Ahmed’s invaluable.
The residents use private passenger vans, called Sotramas, derived from the French
phrase “Société du Transport du Mali”, with established routes but no timetables. I took
one for the experience and they are a cheap option if you know where they are going.
One morning I rode on the back of Ahmed’s motorcycle, which is an efficient way to
weave through traffic.
Both males and females ride small motorcycles, and somehow, they stay neatly attired
for wherever they are going.
Here’s a map of some of the attractions and restaurants in Bamako.
What Languages Are Spoken in Mali and Bamako?
Mali is a country of about 22 million people and has more than 80 languages recognized
by linguists. Since a 2023 referendum, French is no longer the official language of Mali.
Before then, French was the only official language and others were “national”
languages. French was replaced by 13 indigenous languages, though it remains the
working language in government, academia, international trade and tourism.
The main language in Bamako is Bambara, though over 20% of the population speak
another language at home including Maninka (closely related to Bambara and
prominent in Guinea), Fula, Songhay and Dogon. Foreign tourists who speak French
have little trouble with basic communications as most residents have knowledge of
French to varying degrees. English is spoken in high-end hotels and restaurants, by
expats working in Bamako, vendors selling to tourists and among some of the educated
population. Signs are often in French.
There are many well-known singers who perform primarily in Bambara and dialects of it
including Salif Keita, Habib Koité, Kassé Mady Diabaté and Oumou Sangaré. My
favorite is Fatoumata Diawara, whom I’ve seen twice in New York City. I was also
fortunate to see Amadou & Mariam in NYC. Amadou died in Bamako on April 4, 2025
at the age of 70 and thousands of people gathered at his funeral.
Modern forms of the music often have electric guitars and horns incorporated with
traditional instruments such as the djembe (goblet drum, played with bare hands), ngoni
(similarities with a lute and a harp), balafon (wooded xylophone-like instrument), kora
(21 string harp) and soku (similar to a fiddle). Often the music is based on a pentatonic
scale, creating a bluesy sound popular with Western listeners.
What are Important Events in Bamako’s History?
Bamako has a short history as a West African metropolis. It was occupied by the French
in 1880 when it was a settlement of a few hundred inhabitants. It became the capital of
the former colony of French Sudan in 1908 and in 1912 it was connected to the Dakar-
Niger Railway. It expanded dramatically under French control who constructed many
city streets but left much of the existing Islamic architecture. In 1960, Mali gained
independence from France with Bamako as the capital.
One reason Bamako was desirable for the French is that the Niger River runs through it.
We found a good sunset view by the Villa Soudan hotel and restaurant.
How Long to Spend in Bamako?
We spent four full days there and were exploring new things every day. I suggest a
minimum of two days with up to a week if a festival is going on.
Is Bamako Safe?
This city is relatively safe and with a few exceptions isn’t involved in the conflict with
Jihadists. I feel the capital is not dangerous because:
1) There have been relatively few attacks in Bamako.
2) This is a sprawling city of over three million and the odds of a random traveler being in
an insurgent attack is low, especially as there are many hotels scattered throughout the
city and not concentrated in one area.
3) Insurgents have minimal incentive to hit tourist areas as the number of visitors is quite
low and it would have little effect on the economy.
4) Going around the city doesn't feel dangerous as there are so many people everywhere (as
opposed to driving on a rural, empty road). There's a lot of security at medium to high-
end hotels and restaurants.
5) There are a fair number of expats living in the city, which makes tourists less obvious
(unless they have cameras and their shoulders and look like they are overwhelmed by the
street activity).
Most tourist areas outside of Bamako are off limits (Timbuktu, Dogon Country, Djenne,
Segou, etc.). A few roads may be acceptably safe because of numerous check points.
This is my view though others may feel the instability in the country could bleed into the
capital at any time. Everyone thinking of visiting needs to do their own risk analysis.
Is Bamako Expensive?
Bamako is quite affordable and is cheaper than many other capital cities in Africa such
as Dakar, Abidjan and Accra.
Mali’s currency is the West African “Communauté Financière Africaine” (CFA) franc
(referred to as See-Eff-Ay). It’s used as the currency by eight independent states in
West Africa which make up the West African Economic and Monetary Union (UEMOA):
Benin, Burkina Faso, Ivory Coast, Guinea-Bissau, Mali, Niger, Senegal and Togo.
Burkina Faso, Niger and Mali have announced their intention to stop using the CFA
franc in recent years, stay tuned!
Where to Stay in Bamako?
Bamako has many hotels and guesthouses, as well as some hostels. We stayed in the
Hôtel l’Amitié Bamako which has lovely gardens and a gigantic swimming pool. We
picked it as it had a high level of security. However, we found the condition of the facility
was lacking (e.g. elevators not always working) and too expensive ($150 / night) for
what we needed. We could have stayed in another hotel with very good security for
$100 / night or less, e.g. Villa Soudan, with more spacious and interestingly furnished
rooms. Another alternative is the Sleeping Camel hostel with rooms for $50 or less.
What to Eat in Bamako?
Tradition Malian cuisine typically has beef, chicken or fish with a savory sauce or in a
stew with ingredients like peanut, tomato, and okra, and staples such as rice, millet
(small-seeded cereal grasses) and fufu (cassava, yams, or plantains that are pounded
or mashed into a smooth, dough-like consistency). We ate late and large breakfasts
with pastries and cappuccinos (we especially liked N’ice Cream) and nibbled sparingly
for the rest of the day. One night we had a tasty dinner with Hadj and his wife
Doussouba, whom we were introduced to by a common friend, at the Badala Hotel.
Hadj is the founder of The Timbuktu Center for Strategic Studies on the Sahel which is
a think tank uniting cultural heritage and innovation to work for a peaceful and
productive Sahel.
One night we couldn’t resist going to Taco Night at the Sleeping Camel.
There’s plenty of street food everywhere and, for the most part, I wouldn’t hesitate to eat
it.
My favorite fruit, mango, wasn't in season. We tried sweetsop, a fruit with sweet,
creamy, custard-like flesh surrounding large inedible seeds. We bought some from this
young lady who is 22 years-old and has two children.
Markets
Bamako seems like one never ending market with street vendors always present in the
line of vision.
There are two markets we went to that I highly recommend for any visitor.
Grand Marche (Central Market)
The heart of Bamako’s biggest market is Avenue de la Republique and Mohammad V
Street, but it extends several blocks around it. Everything you can imagine is there,
including fruits, vegetables, meats, cooked food, clothes, household goods and
handicrafts.
I negotiated for a braided belt for fifteen minutes and finally bought it and then had it
fitted for my waist.
I loved moseying around the shops selling musical instruments.
The butcher was more than happy to show how he does his work.
It’s amazing that the vendors, many of them women (some with babies on their back),
sit all day, often in very hot weather, selling their goods.
N'glonina Market
In the N’glonina neighborhood, there are narrow streets of artists selling their works. At
one, I had tea with Tuareg artists and looked at their jewelry, art pieces and antique items.
One special item they had were ingenious locks with multiple keys. Ahmed shows how
one of them works in this video.
Another shop had this wooden chair with the Ciwara, the symbol of fertility, agriculture
and excellence, represented by half man and half antelope.
Places of Worship
The dominant religion of Mali (and Bamako) is Islam, ostensibly practiced by over 90%
of the population, and a fair percentage of women wear headcovers in a traditional
Islamic fashion as with this woman by the Tower of Africa.
Christianity is a small minority religion (maybe 1% of the population) and was introduced
in the country in the 19 th century by France missionaries. Indigenous beliefs are still
followed and often blended with Islam and Christianity.
Grand Mosque
The Grand Mosque of Bamako is located next to the Grand Marche / Central Market.
The area around it is built up and it’s difficult to see the whole mosque until you enter
the grounds.
It was built on the site of a former pre-colonial mud-brick mosque in the 1970s and
funded by the Saudi Arabian government. It’s a much humbler structure than found in
many other places in the Islamic World, constructed with concrete and an absence of
architectural razzle dazzle.
Metropolitan Cathedral of the Nativity of God and Bell Tower
Behind the Triumphal Arch in a peaceful park is a bell tower and the city’s main Moldovan Orthodox church, the domed Nativity Cathedral. Both were constructed in the 1830s but the bell tower was demolished by Soviet authorities in 1962 as part of anti-religious policies and rebuilt in 1997.
The gentlemen working there with his son told us when Arabs come, they pray
individually on each of the 900 mosque outlines on the rug on the perimeter of the room.
However, for Malians, over 1300 squeeze in the same area.
The mosque also houses a library with over 10,000 books and manuscripts related to
Islamic studies.
Sacred Heart Cathedral
The construction of the French Colonial cathedral began in 1925 and was finished in
1936. Until 1957, it was the only official place for Catholic worship in the city. The
structure is brown brick with a covered entrance with columns and a cross sitting on a
rounded spire above a clock.
The domes, high ceilings, and stained-glass windows are prominent features on the
inside.
The cathedral conducts services in English, French, and local languages.
Museums
Bamako has a few noteworthy museums which provide very good information on Mali’s
culture, history and government
National Museum of Mali
In the main building of this archaeological and ethnological museum, there were
apparently three permanent exhibits on textiles, archeological items and masks and
statues. My favorite was the latter, however photography was prohibited, so I have no
examples to show.
It had a special exhibition in another building on the legendary Malian Desert Blues
singer and multi-instrumentalist, Ali Farka Touré (1939 to 2006) with his instruments,
clothing and even visas to foreign countries.
There were also headphones to listen to his music. Check out his 1994 album with Ry
Cooder, “Talking Timbuktu“. His son, Vieux Farka Touré, carries on tradition and we
saw him a few years ago in New York.
On the leafy grounds outside, there are small reproductions of famous sites in Mali,
such as the Great Mosque of Djenne.
It was first built in 1280 and rebuilt in 1907.
The National Museum also offers a canteen serving as a place to rest and eat. We took
advantage of it and had juices to cool down.
Prehistoric Garden
The outside National Museum of Prehistory consists of three grottos and a giant
concrete brontosaurus. The first cave was occupied by a homeless man with many
dogs who claimed he maintains the grounds.
It has nothing in particular to do with Mali and looks abandoned. It’s worth going to
because it’s such a quirky place.
Modibo Keita Memorial Center
The Modibo Keita Memorial Centre was inaugurated in 1999 and is dedicated to the first
president of independent Mali. It was partially financed by North Korea and China and
features a hall with photographs of Keita, including meeting with foreign heads of states
and his family. An outside wall shows Mali's prior version of the West African CFA franc
(only one design now of each note for all eight countries using it, they are only
distinguished by a letter indicating which country they are serving, such as M for Mali).
Modibo Keita had a vision for a united and independent Africa and was a hard core
socialist in his economic management. He was ousted in a military coup in 1968, driven
by dissatisfaction over the unsuccessful economy and his repressive regime. He was
imprisoned and died in captivity in 1977. Despite his failures, he’s remembered as a
non-corrupt leader, a national hero and the founding father of Mali.
During our time, there were no other visitors here.
Monuments and Memorials
Bamako, as most capital cities, has many commemorations of the country’s history and
ideals. Some monuments were by government buildings and military installations that
the police or soldiers would not allow a pedestrian to photograph. However, you can
take a discreet shot with your phone from the car with little risk.
Memorial for the March 22, 1991Martyrs
This memorial is homage to the victims of the 1991 Revolution for democratic rule. At
the bottom there’s a mother on her knees in tears, facing the body of her child who was
shot in the head. At the top, demonstrators watch as the victim screams in pain.
The work was inaugurated on March 29, 1995.
Obelisk of Ideograms
This Egyptian looking memorial is dedicated to the N’Ko writing system that was
developed in 1949 for Bambara and closely related languages. It’s used in Mali and
other West African countries to provide a native script. It’s made up of 25 characters
that are related to past written communications originating in Africa.
On June 27, 2024, the N’Ko literary standard was added to Google Translate.
Arch of Bamako
The meaning of Bamako in the Bambara language is crocodile and there are three of
them in this monument. The Arch symbolizes the nature of the country.
Other Monuments
Other ones we saw:
- Independence Monument
- Peace Monument
- Monument to the Heroes of the Black Army
- Kwame Nkruma Monument
- African Tower Monument
Scenic Overlook
From Koulouba Hill we saw the sprawling expanse of Bamako. This small mountain is
known as the "hill of power" as the Presidential Palace and the Ministry of Foreign
Affairs are located there. Also at the base is the National Museum. We took a taxi to the
top, walked through a gym where several men were lifting weights and found a clearing
for my panorama photos, such as the one at the top of this post. After I was finished
photographing, we walked down on a trail, occasionally on stairs.
Point G is a nearby point, next to a hospital, which also has good views of the city’s
skyline.
Festivals
Bamako has many festivals throughout the year. We went to the first day of the
International Festival of African Cuisines of Bamako. It started at 4:30pm and was long
on speeches and short on food. However, the giant marionettes were spectacular.
As we were recently granted a five-year, multiple entry visa to Mali, we are considering
going to the Dogon Festival in Bamako in late January, 2026, then visiting other
countries in West Africa.
Final Thoughts
For our whole stay, we looked for live music. Bassem, a friend of Ahmed who works for
UNICEF, told us he was going to see a kora player at the Villa Soudan hotel and
restaurant. We met him there and chatted while the kora player performed by the
swimming pool.
Once we focused, we were astonished to hear Khadija’s and my name in his lyrics. We
don’t believe in ESP and were wondering how he knew. Then Bassem told us he asked
the musician to dedicate a song for us. This was a great melodic introduction to a
country with fantastic music. We are excited about returning and delving into a lot more
music, culture and good times!
