Malawi is a special place in Africa, where ethnic groups live harmoniously and most people are engaged in small-scale agriculture. Visitors are treated in a welcoming and respectful manner, thus earning the nation the nickname “The Warm Heart of Africa”
Everyday, something new and unexpected happened while we were traversing the country. The landscapes kept changing from flatlands with sporadic mountains to massive mountains of granite to one of the largest lakes in the continent. We stumbled onto ceremonial celebrations with singing and drinking and watched sacred masked dance representing ancestral spirits. The wildlife ranged from highly colorful cichlid fish to savanna elephants.
Before going, I knew little about the culture and geography, which surprised me as I considered myself a seasoned international traveler. After visiting there, I can verify this is an underrated country to travel to, especially when thinking of the peaceful and friendly local folks, such as these guys in Cape Maclear.
Why Did We Go to Malawi?
My wife Khadija and I have a goal to visit all 193 United Nations countries. To fulfill this mission, we visited Malawi in January 2026, a new country for both of us: #158 for me and #155 for her.
I have now finished East Africa, from Egypt to South Africa, and have 18 to visit on the continent, mostly in western and central Africa. Khadija has fewer to visit but still needs to travel to Zimbabwe to finish East Africa.
Having said this, our visit wasn’t a ho-hum exercise, just to say we’ve been there. It was an intense eight-day experience, learning about the culture, history and geography of this little-known nation.
Where is Malawi?
Malawi is a small, landlocked country (about the size of New York State or Bulgaria) surrounded by Tanzania, Zambia and Mozambique.
The country is long and narrow, stretching roughly 900 km / 560 mi from north to south, but with a width ranging from 10% to 20% of that. The shape of Malawi looks like a seahorse (or a chili pepper), with the head at the north and the tail at the south. Lake Malawi, the third largest lake in Africa, after Victoria and Tanganyika, is on the northeastern border, but partially in the territory of Mozambique.
How Long to Spend in Malawi?
We explored the southern part of the country, mostly surrounded by Mozambique in the east, south and west. We took eight days for this journey. To reasonably cover the whole country in some depth would take a minimum of two weeks, but some of my friends have spent three to four weeks.
When is the Best Time to Visit Malawi?
We went during the rainy season (December to March) when the countryside is green with crops and vegetation, so quite good for photography as long as there isn’t rain or overcast skies. We were lucky and had little rain and a fair amount of sunshine.
The rest of the year, the landscape is brownish and the vegetation is less thick, which is good for spotting animals in national parks.
In August and September, there are many festivals corresponding to the harvesting of crops.
How to Get Around Malawi?
If you can afford it, have limited time and want to cover a considerable part of the country, the best way to travel is with a driver and a car. This allows flexibility to vary the route upon receiving information about the desirability of destinations. We used Henry Master of Zanthu (People’s) Tours (+265 88 212 8674 WhatsApp, [email protected], henrymaster4 / Zanthu Tours, who is both driver and guide, thus providing good value for the traveler. He is outgoing and flexible and was a pleasure to be with
We were able to get to almost everywhere we wanted in his four-door sedan, but some dirt roads to remote areas required a high-clearance vehicle. However, while some major roads are acceptably maintained, there are long stretches on some which are full of potholes which considerably slowed us down.
Other alternatives are car and motorbike taxis for cities and short distances and affordable coach buses and cheaper but crowded minivans for long distances. Major towns like Lilongwe, Blantyre and Mzuzu have public buses.
For Lake Malawi there are atmospheric but slow ferries which often are not on schedule. Of note, Likoma and Chizumulu Islands are inhabited islands in Lake Malawi located within the Mozambique border but part of Malawi. These enclaves are a legacy of the British colonial period.
Here is a map of some of the country’s attractions.
While driving, I was awed by the variety of landscapes, such as along Highway M1.
What are the Ethnic Groups of Malawi?
Malawi has several ethnic groups and the five biggest are (by approximate population share) are the Chewa (25%), Tumbuka (21%), Lonwe (18%), Yao (13%) and Ngoni (11%). The Yao are mainly Muslims and the other four are predominantly Christian.
There is a noticeable population of people of Indian origin living mostly in Lilongwe and Blantyre. They are largely descendants of Gujarati settlers brought by the British in the late 1800s to build railways. There’s also a small community of Chinese primarily made up of merchants running small businesses or working on China-funded infrastructure and mining projects.
Malawi has a population of about 22 million and is the most densely populated country in southeast Africa, almost three times as much as the next one, Tanzania.
What Languages Are Spoken in Malawi?
English is the official language, primarily for instruction and administration. However, most people don’t know more than basic conversational phrases and English isn’t a daily conversational language. In any case, a visitor knowing only English can travel with minimum difficulties.
Chichewa, the language of the Chewa, is the lingua franca of Malawi, spoken by 60% of the population and widely used for communication across different ethnic groups, particularly in the Central and Southern regions.
Is Malawi Safe?
The country is a safe destination for tourists. However, like everywhere, a visitor must use common sense and reasonable caution, especially at night and in deserted areas.
Is Malawi Expensive?
Malawi is an inexpensive country to travel in, provided you change your money on the street and not pay the official rate. We were getting 3,500 kwacha to one US$ when the official rate was 1,740. Except a few times we had no choice, we paid everything in kwacha. The visitor shouldn’t pay by credit card or take money from the ATM as the official rate is used for both.
The 5000 kwacha looks like this:
What to Eat in Malawi?
Our favorite restaurant was Zathu (meaning “ours”) in Cape Maclear. Zathu grows all of its vegetables and slowly cooks the meat and fish. They served us wonderful side dishes including (clockwise from top right) nathando (okra), chamwamba (nutritious green leaves from the Moringo tree), tomato onion sauce and nyemba (beans).
At the Blend Kitchen in Zomba, I ate chicken with nsima, a heavy, maize-based dough. It has little taste and I needed accompanying sauces to even take a few bites of it.
There’s always street food around, including goat fried in oils.
Kuche Kuche is a popular beer. The name means “drink until dawn” referring to its low alcohol content which can be consumed for a long period of time.
Maize is the main food crop, occupying 60% of cultivated land, and supplying two-thirds of the national calorie intake. Often maize is the predominant food for a family, as a result, their overall health suffers from lack of certain nutrients.
Where to Stay in Malawi?
We stayed in reasonably comfortable accommodations, paying between MWK 350,000 and MWK 600,000/night, almost all with breakfast. One exception was a guesthouse for about MWK 250,000 by the Mulanje Massif. Once the electricity failed at around 10pm, shutting off the fan, we had to contend with ants and other crawling insects.
What are Important Events in Malawi’s History?
In the 13th and 15th centuries, Bantu people immigrated from the north and assimilated with the local populations.
The British formally colonized Malawi by establishing the British Central Africa Protectorate in 1891. The successor Nyasaland Districts Protectorate was dissolved in 1963, and Malawi became independent on July 6, 1964.
On July 6, 1966, Malawi became a republic, and Hastings Banda was elected president and in 1971 he was made president for life. In May 1994, in a fair election Banda was defeated at age 96. Since then, there have been five presidents including Banda’s wife Joan.
The current one, Peter Mutharika, was elected twice in non-consecutive terms, losing one election in between. His brother Bingu wa Mutharika, a previous president, is memorialized with a statue in front of the Parliament building.
Lizulu and Umbizo Celebration
We flew into Lilongwe, the capital, in a two-hour and fifteen-minute flight from Nairobi. After quickly paying for a $50 visa-on-arrival we met Henry, our driver and guide. We drove south on Highway M1 to where Malawi is its narrowest and Mozambique is both west and east. We noticed a man in traditional Ngoni attire in the market of Lizulu.
The Ngoni originated from the Zulu nation in South Africa, who migrated northwards in the 19th century, settling across parts of Malawi, Zambia, Mozambique and Tanzania. They incorporated local languages and assimilated with local tribes but retained a separate identity.
We then learned the local Ngoni were celebrating Umbizo, which honors past kings, outside the nearby royal palace. The lively and enthusiastic dancing and singing was in a circle with all facing the middle and wearing a variety of animal fur, skins and body parts.
A picture gives an idea, but a video shows the rhythm and fun, as this was not for an audience both for their own enjoyment.
The men were holding weapons of battle, including shields and clubs. They are traditionally known for their warrior prowess and ferocity, but today it is said the men have three favorite things: beer, meat and women. In my group photo with them, one man was waiting to drink from a carton of homemade beer.
This celebration typically lasts between two and four days.
Blantyre
We stopped in Blantyre (almost rhymes with planter), Malawi’s commercial and industrial capital and second-largest city. It had a few British colonial buildings remaining including the Mandala House, the oldest building in the country (built 1882) now a historic landmark containing an archive, art gallery and cafe.
The Taqwa mosque in Blantyre, opened in 2022. While Muslims are less than 15% of the population, we saw many mosques.
Zomba Plateau
Zomba Plateau is a mountain overlooking the city of Zomba. Most of the plateau used to be covered with grasses and shrubs and has since been converted to pine, planted for timber production.
I hiked with Henry to Williams Falls, a picnic and popular swimming location.
On the trail to the waterfall, we saw folks coming home from Sunday church and…
a barefooted man carrying long tree branches to sell for cooking and other purposes.
Mulanje Massif
Mulanje Massif, an enormous “island mountain”, rises sharply from the surrounding plains in southern Malawi. It has over 20 peaks, plateaus, deep valleys, waterfalls, and natural pools. Sapitwa Peak (3,000m / 9,850 ft) is the highest point in Malawi. It’s a popular hiking destination with a network of huts, offering multi-day treks.
At the foot of Mulanje are sprawling tea plantations. Workers gather 40 kg / 90 lbs of leaves each day, filling a large basket on their back four times.
Students in a schoolyard greeted us while I was taking photos from the car.
Liwonde National Park
Malawi has a fair amount of large, wild animals especially in national parks, despite using so much of the land for crops and being densely populated.
At the entrance to Liwonde National Park, the best wildlife reserve in the country, is a metal rhino made from traps confiscated from poachers.
It was the rainy season and animals didn’t need to go often to the Shire River to drink and were obscured by trees, bushes and grasses. During our early morning drive, the animals we saw the most were antelopes, including waterbucks that have a white circle on their backside.
The most endearing sight were three affectionate elephant brothers.
In the distance, we saw lions stalking a kudu.
We also saw water buffalo, warthogs, baboons, marabou storks, egrets, a hammerhead bird and a monitor lizard. We didn’t see cheetahs, zebras and rhinos, residents of the park. As of now, there are no giraffes and leopards.
In the afternoon we took a boat safari on the river, where we saw eagles, cormorants and hippos cooling in the water.
We stayed in Kutchire Lodge, next to the park, which had cabins, wildlife drives, boat rides, dinner and breakfast. We could have stayed in a nearby village to save on lodging, driven in the park with our car but we still would have been required to have a guide. Either way, we had to pay the park entrance fee, a required accompanying guide and the boat ride. Unless a person is on a strict budget, I suggest staying in a lodge as it’s more convenient and the vehicle for the wildlife drive is exceedingly better than a personal car.
Cape Maclear
Cape Maclear is on the Nankumba Peninsula at the southern end of Lake Malawi. In 1859, the missionary and explorer David Livingstone arrived here. He named it after his friend, Thomas Maclear who was an astronomer at the Royal Observatory at the Cape of Good Hope, the first permanent observatory in the Southern Hemisphere.
For many, the highlight is Lake Malawi National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, famous for its over a thousand species of cichlid fish, most of which are found nowhere else in the world. These colorful fish inhabit rocky, clear waters.
We also watched fish eagles flying towards their prey in the water.
In the lake we saw ladies washing clothes and fishermen paddling in a canoe.
In the lake, a visitor can snorkel, dive, and kayak. However, swimming in Lake Malawi risks contracting schistosomiasis (bilharzia). Anyone doing this should take Praziquantel medication afterwards.
Beyond the lake, it’s great to hang out in this super-safe, laid-backed village, which we did for two days. For instance, we noticed children were playing checkers with bottle caps.
There is a stretch of murals, many painted by the local artist Boston, whom we bought a painting from.
Mwala wa Mphini
Mwala wa Mphini is an intriguing, chiseled geometric pattern on a rock hill near Cape Maclear.
It dates back to the Iron Age and many folktales describe the rock’s origin and healing powers.
Mua Mission
The Mua Mission in central Malawi is a dynamic organization serving the community.
It’s part of the Missionaries of Africa, a Catholic order of men founded in 1868. They are known as the White Fathers because of the white robes they wear, not because of the color of their skin. Today many of their priests are African. The Mua Mission dates back to 1902.
We met Father Brendan O’Shea, originally from Ireland, who is the dedicated director and speaks Chichewa like a local. He explained the history and showed us around the large campus.
The brick church has been here for decades in this rural area. It has two notable frescoes in front. One shows an African-looking Mary feeding maize to children. The other is Mary comforting Elizabeth, a barren woman who in her old age miraculously conceives and bears John the Baptist.
The inside is spacious with a sparsely adorned sanctuary where the priest conducts services and rituals.
Most striking to me was the Afro-Christian iconography, such as this pulpit exquisitely carved from mahogany.
We stayed at the mission’s guesthouse where every room represents a character and has a corresponding mask outside the entrance. Our room referenced the character Mayino, an old man, bald with heavy wrinkles and two long teeth protruding from his mouth. His nose is crooked and loose skin is seen on his forehead. He is a non-conformist and a strong-minded person. In the animal kingdom, he would be a warthog.
Kungoni Centre of Culture and Art
In 1976, Canadian Father Claude Boucher Chisale and the Mua Mission established the Kungoni Centre of Culture and Art, initially as an art collective. Since then, it has grown into a vibrant institution preserving local cultures and helping to support local artisans. It’s a must-see when visiting Malawi.
The Museum has three connected, circular buildings. On the outside are a series of frescoes recounting the history of Malawi. Here are two with Timothy who gave us a tour of the collection.
Two of three buildings showcase cultural items which could not be photographed. The other had the history of the mission and local Christian artwork.
We attended a two-hour dance and music performance of traditional ceremonies. It was so interesting and entertaining that it seemed to me it could be a popular off-Broadway production in NYC.
The Gule Wamkulu, a ritual masquerade and dance of the Chewa people in Malawi, Zambia, and Mozambique was performed by initiated members of the Nyau society. The name is widely translated as “the great dance”. This storytelling originated in the 17th century and accommodated certain Christian elements while retaining its core ritual functions. It is often staged after the July harvest and at major rites such as weddings and funerals.
Dancers wear full-body costumes and carved masks of wood, cloth and straw depicting animals, spirits and historical figures (e.g., slave traders), with each character embodying traits used to instruct audiences in moral and social values. Here’s a video of just snippets of what we saw.
Another part of the cultural immersion was the traditional dance of the Ngoni people who trace their origins to the Nguni and Zulu people of KwaZulu-Natal in South Africa. They do not use masks, thus revealing their striking faces.
Chongoni Rock-Art Area
Chongoni Rock-Art Area is on forested hills about 80 km / 50 mi from Lilongwe. This UNESCO World Heritage Site has 127 sites of rock art, some from the late Stone Age.
It took us a while to find the access road near the town of Linthipe and most of the locals, including the police, did not know where it was. After being on it for about five minutes, we realized that our sedan didn’t have sufficient clearance to make it and we turned around.
I spoke to two friends who made it and they were not impressed with what they saw there, especially after enduring the last part of the drive on a rough road. In any case, a visitor would need to ensure they have a high-clearance vehicle.
Lilongwe
Lilongwe was established in 1902 by the British. It has been the capital of Malawi since 1975, replacing the previous one in Zomba. It’s known as a capital city with few things for a visitor to see. For most people, a half day is enough.
Kamuzu Mausoleum is the resting place of Malawi’s first president, Kamuzu Banda.
His symbol was the lion as represented in the surrounding flower pots.
He was president of Malawi from 1964 to 1994. As an anti-communist leader in Africa, he received support from the West during the Cold War. While in power, he oversaw improvement in infrastructure, agriculture and public education. However, he also had one of the most repressive regimes in Africa, where political opponents were regularly tortured and murdered.
The Malawi Parliament Building, built in the early 2000s, is the seat of the National Assembly of Malawi. It has an impressive gate in front of it.
The National War Memorial Tower honors soldiers and civilians who died during the First and Second World Wars and other military operations both within and outside Malawi.
Lilongwe Wildlife Centre is a rescue center and works with local communities to balance economic necessity with preserving fauna. It used to be a zoo but now only has walking paths. We found out that if they are contacted sufficiently ahead of time, a visitor could see their rehabilitation facilities.
We found a specialty coffee place called Cappuccino Café in the Crossroads Mall, but the cappuccino machine was broken. Luckily, I was able to buy a passable one at Wimpy next store.
Our last night was Saturday and we hoped to see local music but no one we asked knew of anything.
Final Thoughts
We saw a bus with the image of Saulos Klaus Chilima, a Malawian economist and politician who served as Vice President until his death at age 51 in 2024. A plane carrying him and eight other passengers crashed, killing all onboard. About 40,000 people attended his state funeral in a stadium.
Tsogolo Lathu was written on the back of the bus and is a Chichewa expression for “our future” and widely used in Malawi to represent hope and empowerment, especially for young people. This moving slogan and the incredible hard work I saw showed me the country is working to improve itself, despite being one of the poorest in the world. This broadened my perspective on the country and made my experience more meaningful. This is another important benefit for visitors to witness when going to Malawi, along with the stunning landscape, diverse wildlife and cultural richness.
