For those touring South America, it was common to skip Paraguay as it didn’t have a single world-famous monument or natural wonder, the cities were generally deteriorated or commercially based, and driving hours through flat farmland wasn’t exciting. Then a funny thing occurred, in 2025 the number of visitors almost doubled! What happened?
A confluence of factors made this landlock country more appealing. The national government finally realized there is money to be had with tourism and started promoting the country as a destination and expanded flight routes and upgraded airport infrastructure to make flying into the capital Asuncion more attractive. Global travelers also woke up and took advantage of Paraguay’s terrific value-for-money. Even though the vast majority are from Argentina and Brazil, visitors from everywhere appreciate its relaxed and welcoming atmosphere, such when I discussed baseball and football with local police in Asuncion and then posed for a photo with them.
Be sure to see the Paraguay Photo Gallery associated with this post.
Paraguay might not seem like it has much to see or experience, but each day we traveled we became more enamored with its ethnic diversity, eventful history and even oddball surprises, such as this “robot” made from gas containers.
A visitor shouldn’t wait to visit Paraguay because the country is currently in a rare “Goldilocks Window” where it offers modern comforts without the downsides of mass tourism.
Why Did We Go to Paraguay?
My wife Khadija and I have had an unusual number of obligations at home so far in 2026. So, when we had a week available, we decided to go to Paraguay in May, a new UN country for both of us (#159 for me and #156 for her). We now have only Venezuela left in Latin America.
How Long to Spend in Paraguay?
We spent one week visiting the eastern triangle of Asuncion – Encarnacion – Ciudad del Este, where about two-thirds of the population live. A week is the minimum for this part of the country.
Another week would be required for the western part, known as El Chaco. This sparsely populated and arid plain is about two-thirds of the country’s area with less than five percent of the population.
It has a wide variety of wildlife, including many bird species, jaguars, pumas, alligators, anteaters, pit vipers, tapirs, feral boars, wolves and armadillos. There are also military sites from the conflict between Paraguay and Bolivia, known as the Chaco War, fought from 1932 to 1935, over control of this region (Paraguay won). A visitor needs an organized trip or a highly experienced local guide to see wildlife in the Chaco National Parks, as well as a rugged vehicle with high clearance. The parks are remote with only poorly maintained dirt roads. There are few road signs and infrequent cell service. However, you can easily drive to the Mennonite colonies of Fernheim, Menno and Neuland.
Where is Paraguay?
Paraguay is known as the “Heart of South America”, situated between Brazil, Argentina and Bolivia. It’s one of two landlock countries on the continent (the other is Bolivia) and is about the size of California.
Despite having no access to the ocean, Paraguay has a sizable network of rivers and, unusually but logically, a navy with ships adapted for river navigation. Knowing these rivers helps in understanding the economy, energy independence and natural borders.
Here’s a map of rivers (from the Fauna Paraguay website), dominated by three which form parts of the borders with neighboring countries.
The Parana River is only on the eastern border with Brazil and flows over the massive Itaipu Dam, jointly owned by both countries. It’s the second-longest river on the continent, after the Amazon.
The Paraguay River forms a section of the northwestern border between Paraguay and Brazil, then flows through the middle of Paraguay. Finally, it passes Asuncion and becomes the border between Argentina, eventually flowing into the Parana River.
The Pilcomayo River originates in the Bolivian Andes and forms part of the southwestern border with Argentina and empties into the Paraguay River.
The Iguazu River, the water source for Iguazu Falls, is only in Brazil and ends in the Parana River where Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil meet. Go to my Iguazu Falls post for more information on this magnificent natural wonder.
What are the Ethnic Groups in Paraguay and What Languages are Spoken?
Indigenous people make up around two percent of the population, comprising 19 distinct ethnic groups across five linguistic families including Guarani, an official language along with Spanish. Here’s a photo of an indigenous woman who was selling traditional items in a street fair in Asuncion.
I’ve read in many places that over 90% of Paraguayans understand Guarani and a majority speak it daily. However, from our week there, we heard only Spanish. I asked a few people and they said they had classes in school in Guarani but are no way fluent. Apparently, it’s the dominant language and spoken at home in many rural communities.
Paraguay has historically had more people leaving the country than immigrating. However, emigration over the last 20 years has reduced significantly because of sustained domestic economic growth, where one-third of the population has escaped poverty, paired with severe economic deterioration in its traditional destination countries of Argentina and Brazil.
However, there have been waves of immigrants primarily availing themselves of the low cost of living, favorable tax environment and ease in residency requirements. Some are from the three neighboring countries, others are from a notable Mennonite community (more on that later), as well as concentrations of German, Arabs from the Levant and even a small number of South and East Asians.
When is the Best Time to Visit Paraguay?
The best time to visit Paraguay is during the cooler and drier months from May to September. We were there in May and only occasionally wore a light jacket or windbreaker. As you can see from the women at this bus stop in Ciudad del Este, the locals were dressed for moderate temperatures.
The time to avoid is December to March, where heat is often oppressive and rainstorms frequent, although there’s the advantage of no tourists and days with long sunlight.
How to Get Around Paraguay?
We rented a car (compact SUV) and drove ourselves. It’s an excellent way to meander through the country, as we made up the itinerary as we went. In the populated southeast where we were, the main roads are in good shape, even with a few divided highways, though at times we had to share with cattle.
What was particularly appealing to me was driving through beautiful farmland, including this cultivated woodland.
There’s a law that car lights should be on all the time while driving. I forgot about it and was pulled over by the police after driving from a toll booth. The police officer led me to a tiny room barely fitting a desk and a chair, located in a small building.
The essence of the conversation (he was speaking Spanish and I communicated in English and very broken Spanish and we both used Google Translate) went like this:
Officer: You have violated the law by not having your lights on.
Ed: I just arrived yesterday and didn’t know this was illegal.
Officer: That doesn’t matter, everyone should be aware of our country’s laws.
Ed: I’m aware now and will keep my lights on.
Officer: You are required to pay a fine.
Ed: How much is it?
Officer: 465,000 Paraguay Guaranis
Ed: Let me see how much that is. (After researching online), that’s about US $80, it can’t be that high.
Officer: Do you think I’m lying?
Ed: No, but it seems very high.
Officer: Look here (shows me a chart on his phone).
Ed: But I’m a tourist and just arrived yesterday, I should just get just a warning.
Officer: Let me remind you, everyone needs to follow the law.
Ed: I understand that, but I’m sure you have the discretion to give me a warning.
The conversation goes back and forth like this for another five minutes, but finally…
Officer: Alright, this time I will let you go with just a warning.
Ed: Thank you very much, I highly appreciate your understanding.
I felt vindicated for standing my ground. Later I learned that the police are supposed to give you a ticket and not collect money. I suspect that he wanted me to pay him cash, so he could pocket it.
Without a car, a visitor could take buses with reclining seats, air conditioning, and onboard bathrooms. Within a city, there are car service apps (Bolt is most common) that are not expensive. We didn’t want to bother looking for parking in Asuncion and we used Uber and paid in local currency, as my credit card gives the best conversion rate and doesn’t charge a foreign transaction fee.
Here’s a map of selected attractions in Paraguay.
Is Paraguay Safe?
Paraguay is one of the safest countries to visit in South America. However, a visitor must always use common sense and should avoid walking at night both in shanty settlements in big cities (pictured below) and in deserted places.
Is Paraguay Expensive and What is the Currency?
The bill in Paraguay for food and drink was one-quarter to one-third the price of New York City. We stayed in good hotels, not luxury ones, and always paid less than $100 / night. It’s possible to find quite inexpensive but acceptable lodging.
The currency of Paraguay is the Paraguayan Guarani (symbol: ₲; currency code: PYG). When we were there, 6,000 ₲ equaled 1 US$. In Ciudad del Este, our restaurant bill was quoted in three currencies (₲, US$ and Brazilian R$).
What to Eat in Paraguay?
We ate well in Paraguay with some very good culinary experiences.
We met Alexandria and Patricia, owners of the Fika Cafe, where we had homemade pastries with jams and lattes. It’s located in the historic center of Asuncion near Uruguay Park and the Central Station Train Museum.
There we tasted mate, the “tea of Paraguay”. It’s made from nutrient-rich, caffeinated, Yerba-mate leaves of a native South American holly tree. To me, it tasted bitter with a strong, distinctive flavor.
Mate was originally developed by the indigenous Guarani and Kaingang peoples of South America long before Europeans set foot on the continent. In Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay, mate is also widely consumed.
Chipa is a widely consumed cheese bread made from cassava, cheese, eggs, and fat. It’s crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside.
A curator at the fabulous Museo del Barro recommended Ese Lugar! – Quinta Nauar (That Place! – Nauar Estate) named after a family who lived in a restored 1896 house which the restaurant occupies. It’s in the exclusive Villa Morra neighborhood of Asuncion.
Khadija had surubi stew with rice. Surubi is a freshwater catfish native to the Amazon and Rio de la Plata basins.
I ate my entire serving of chicken stew with noodles, only occasionally taking a deep breath.
I hardly drink alcohol, but I felt compelled to try the local beer called Pilsen, a golden-color, crisp lager. Although I wanted little more than a taste, it was served in a huge bottle.
Where to Stay in Paraguay?
We made no advance reservations for lodging. Every afternoon we decided where we wanted to spend the night and used booking.com to find a place that fit our price and comfort level. In Asuncion, we stayed in the Crown Palace near the historic center as I was able to use IHG One Rewards to pay for most of the two nights we were there.
Asuncion
Asuncion is the capital of Paraguay with a population around 450,000 and a metro area of over two million. This is almost one-third of the country’s population of approximately seven million. The extended city has the full gamut of neighborhoods, from leafy and manicured suburbs to very poor and crumbling enclaves. A common feature everywhere is congested traffic.
Asuncion was founded as a fort in 1537 by the Spanish. The name originates from the Virgin Mary’s bodily ascent into Heaven.
Historic Center
For most of our two days in the capital, we walked in the Historic Center. The area is a layered mosaic of Spanish colonial structures, 19th-century European Neoclassical buildings and modern glass towers. While the tide seems to be turning and there is some renovation occurring, a sizable majority of buildings are deteriorated and crumbling.
Uruguay Park
The historic center has a number of small parks within the grid layout of the streets. We started at Uruguay Park which was close to our hotel and had statues, community buildings and children play areas.
Central Train Station
The no-longer used Central Train Station now has a small but informative museum and an old passenger car with wood paneling and, when we were there, a friendly lady servicing the bar section.
Palace of the Lopez
This enormous former manor is the workplace of the president and the seat of the government. Carlos Antonio Lopez, the first constitutional president of Paraguay, began construction in 1857.
National Pantheon of Heroes
The National Pantheon of Heroes is a neoclassical mausoleum with tombs of important Paraguayans, an eternal flame and a changing of the guard ceremony.
Metropolitan Cathedral and Catholic University
The city’s main church is the Metropolitan Cathedral of the Assumption, across a small street from the Catholic University.
We watched a painter at work, seemingly floating up and down the front wall of the cathedral.
Then a couple buses of architectural and industrial design students stopped to examine the exterior.
Street Fair
We were lucky to stumble upon a street fair, serving local food and a stage for alternative Latin rock, along with a human statue.
Loma San Jeronimo
While Asuncion isn’t a renowned city for street murals (such as Melbourne, Berlin, Medellin and Brooklyn / Bushwich), we saw some interesting ones in Loma San Jeronimo.
It’s a small neighborhood of colorful houses and pedestrian alleys. The neighborhood dates back to the colonial era and is named after the monk who translated the Bible into Latin in the 5th-century.
Museo del Barro (Clay Museum)
This is one of the best small museums I’ve seen in my many travels. Anyone visiting Asuncion should not miss it.
While we were there, we were extremely impressed by the exhibit “Las Noguera: Six Forms of Clay” which brought together, for the first time, the ceramic work of the six Noguera sisters. The following were made by Ediltrudis Noguera.
The museum has collections of Paraguayan, Latin American and Spanish ceramic (especially pottery), colonial, indigenous and contemporary art, as well as amazing masks from around the world.
Aregua
Aregua is a historic city located in the Asuncion metro area. It has blocks of street vendors selling every imaginable type of pottery and ceramics.
Encarnacion
Encarnacion is the third-largest city in Paraguay and smartly laid out for waterfront recreation and preserving historic structures in the commercial areas. Every January and February the city hosts a Carnival celebration, the most colorful one in the nation. With vibrant parades, elaborate costumes, and constant party music.
Many use Encarnacion as a base to visit relatively nearby ruins of Jesuit missions.
Staircase of San Pedro
The Escalinata del Barrio San Pedro has the feel of a miniature Park Güell in Barcelona with seafaring, nature and cultural imagery. Created by artist Ruben Syroka, the artwork represents “transformation” and is said to hide over 1,000 stories within its designs. The mosaics are mostly made from cut ceramic tiles.
Costanera
The Costanera is an elegant waterfront promenade next to the Parana River extending 8.7 km / 5.4-mile. It has bikeways, pedestrian walkways and the Sambadrome which serves as the official stage for the city’s massively popular Carnaval celebration.
San Jose Beach is full during the summer months of January and February, particularly on Saturday nights but was unoccupied when we were there on an autumn weekday morning. Next to the beach is the historic San Jose Flour Mill, in operation from 1940 to 1989.
Cathedral
The cathedral is refined in its style and decorations with a simple drawing of the Last Supper behind the altar.
Saint Nicholas Orthodox Church
The Saint Nicholas Orthodox Church is a Russian Orthodox parish built by Russian immigrants in 1927. The elaborate facade contrasts with the surrounding colonial architecture.
Plaza de Armas
The pleasant Plaza de Armas in the heart of the city surprisingly has an Arabic arch dedicated to the Syrian-Lebanese community and is next to a cedar tree brought from Lebanon.
The Independence Monument commemorates this plaza where Colonel Fulgencio Yegros departed in 1811 to support the independence movement in Asuncion.
Jesuit Ruins and the Mission of La Santisima Trinidad de Parana
The Jesuit Route is a circuit of 17th and 18th-century ruins of Jesuit settlements. The mission architecture was a blend of baroque and indigenous Guarani styles, while the surrounding town (reduccione) layout was usually a grid of streets around a large central square (plaza mayor) common with Spanish colonial settlements.
The missions and the armed residents of the town protected tens of thousands of Guarani people from forced labor and slavery.
We visited only the Jesuit Mission of La Santisima Trinidad de Parana which, along with the Jesuit Mission of Jesus de Tavarangue (Jesus of the Future Village), is an UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It’s amazing seeing Baroque stone reliefs mingled with Christian iconography in what was then a very far-flung place from Europe.
Traditional European Baroque architecture usually featured flower garlands, palm fronds, and acanthus leaves. Here the Guarani carvers instead portrayed native plants.
The Guarani living in the mission had rectangular rooms made of stone.
In retrospect, we would have explored more of the other 28 missions, especially the ones with unique architecture and artistic features, such as frescos, pristine wood carvings, Moorish arches and even an astronomical observatory.
For those interested, here is a summary of what happened to the missions:
Spanish King Charles III believed the highly autonomous Jesuits ultimate loyalty was to the Pope and threatened his royal power. In 1867, he issued a decree of “perpetual expulsion” of the Jesuits in all the Spanish territories. Because the Guarani missions in Paraguay were so remote and heavily populated, the military took months to plan and organize the eviction and delayed action until 1768 where they marched in with massive force. Despite having the ability to put up a substantial resistance, the Jesuits honored their religious vow of obedience to the crown and surrendered without a fight and instructed the Guarani to also not resist.
The Spanish government then took over control of secular administration, usually in a corrupt fashion, and allowed other compliant Catholic orders to address spiritual needs. However, the Guarani never trusted the new regime and many fled to the jungle to live off the land and to large cities for low-wage work. By 1801 about half of the Guarani had left.
The coup de grâce for the missions happened in the 1810s and 1820s during the South American Wars of Independence. During this tumultuous time, the missions were looted and destroyed by both Spanish and Revolutionary forces, as well as invading armies from Portuguese Brazil. By the 1820s, the cities were largely ghost towns.
The United Colonies and Bella Vista
When we left Trinidad de Parana, it was late afternoon. By looking at the map and booking.com, we decided to spend the night in the Papillon Hotel in Bella Vista. When the woman at the hotel desk couldn’t understand my feeble Spanish, she asked if I spoke German. I was so surprised by this and had no idea where that question came from.
By the next day, I discovered there are over ten non-Mennonite “German” communities in Paraguay. Depending on whether you count active German speakers or the broader population of German descent, they number between 60,000 and 125,000 individuals. German schools, clubs, festivals, restaurants, beer halls, architecture, as well as Lutheran churches, are common, with German still widely spoken.
I’m with Christian, originally from Bonn, Germany, who came to Paraguay at age 18 and started the Papillon Hotel. He named the hotel after the movie starring Steve McQueen, just because he liked the film.
We discovered we were in the United Colonies (colony is the term used for German communities, including for the Mennonites), composed of the three closely linked towns of Hohenau, Obligado, and Bella Vista. They were founded between 1900 and 1918.
Many residents, particularly those in agriculture, have pooled their resources and share both the risks and the profits. This economic model has served them well, as the colony is prosperous. The Monument to Cooperativism in Obligado serves as a tribute to the region’s history of working together in agricultural production.
Ciudad del Este
The city is renowned (or infamous) as a huge tax-free economic zone with hundreds of shops selling electronics, luxury goods, cosmetics, outdoor gear, etc. We weren’t interested in buying any consumer items but drove by to see what it looked like.
An estimated 100,000 people cross the Friendship Bridge daily between Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil) and Ciudad del Este (Paraguay), mainly Brazilian shoppers and traders attracted by lower prices stemming from less taxation on “luxury” goods.
Tourists in Paraguay go over the bridge to see the Brazilian side of Iguazu Falls. We didn’t do this because it would have taken up a good part of the day. Also, when we arrived there, the midday light would be unfavorable for photography.
We were on a street leading to the Friendship Bridge and were stuck for an hour on one block because of the traffic. We relaxed and watched the street hawkers in action.
Cathedral of Saint Blas
The Catholic Cathedral of Saint Blas was designed by Bolivian architect Javier Quezada. It was built in 1964 and is creatively shaped like a boat.
Last February, a devastating fire severely damaged and closed it. Local parishioners and emergency workers rushed inside and rescued sacred objects, historical paintings, and the landmark statue of the patron saint, Saint Blas, before the flames could reach the altar.
al-Khulafa al-Rashidin Mosque
The Masjid al-Khulafa al-Rashidin is a mosque serving the hundreds of Muslims in the region, including across the border in Brazil and Argentina. We met a caretaker, originally from Bangladesh, who showed us the modest prayer room.
It may be one of the biggest mosques in Latin America but it’s fairly small and is located in the middle of one block.
Triple Frontier Monument
Paraguay, Brazil and Argentina borders (aka frontiers) meet where the Iguazu River feeds into the Parana River. Each country has built a dedicated park space on the riverbank, featuring a prominent obelisk painted in the colors of its country’s flag
In Paraguay, the name of the park is Hito Tres Fronteras translates to Triple Frontier Monument.
The park provides a view of all three countries, the confluence of the two rivers and the Integration Bridge between Paraguay and Brazil. The concrete obelisk is painted red, white and blue, the colors of the Paraguayan flag.
On maps, brochures and online articles, the place may be called “Hito Tres Fronteras, Presidente Franco, Paraguay”. The park and monument are not called Presidente Franco but they are inside the city of Presidente Franco. President Franco refers to Paraguay’s President from 1916 to 1919 and not the dictator of Spain.
Itaipu Dam
The massive Itaipu Dam is located on the Parana River between Brazil and Paraguay. It provides the highest energy generation of any dam in the world except for China’s Three Gorges Dam, supplying about 80% of Paraguay’s capacity and 6% of Brazil’s.
Water hasn’t been released since November 2025 and is only done when there’s excess in the reservoir of Itaipu Lake.
There’s always constant water flowing through the giant, white cylinders, turning the turbines and then being released under the river surface.
The official Paraguay bus tour of the Itaipu Hydroelectric Dam is free of charge and starts at the Itaipu Binational Visitor Center in Hernandarias, just north of Ciudad del Este.
Monday Falls
The powerful Monday Falls (Los Saltos del Monday) is Paraguay’s most spectacular natural waterfall and should be visited by all tourists.
I like my afternoon photo of the falls, but in the morning just after the park opens, there is considerably less or no shadow on them. There’s also a much better chance for a rainbow.
While it’s close to the world-famous Iguazu Falls, it is not upstream from it. Monday Falls is fed by the Monday River and Iguazu by the Iguazu River; though both rivers are tributaries of the Parana River.
The name Monday comes from the Guarani language and is unrelated to the day of the week. In Guarani, it’s pronounced something like “Monda-uh” and eventually it morphed into Monday.
Sommerfeld Colony
Mennonites came to Paraguay when the government offered them self-rule and military exemption. They live in colonies, divided by campos (villages or agricultural land). We drove through Sommerfeld, about 200 km /120 mi east of Asuncion.
As we drove in, there was a sign entering the colony and the road was without potholes.
We soon noticed that everything was meticulously maintained.
Many people conflate the Mennonites and the Amish. The Amish split from Mennonites in the late 17th century. From that point, they have maintained their style of dressing and haven’t employed any new technology. In contrast, Mennonites embrace technology and depending on the colony, residents are conservative in clothing to varying degrees.
In Sommerfeld, women wear dark, modest, homemade dresses with a high neckline and falling well below the knee, often extending near the ankles. They also cover their heads with a black or white mesh cap or a folded dark kerchief tied under the chin or pinned over a hair bun.
During the workday, men in the Sommerfeld dress in regular clothes suitable for agricultural labor, though they dress conservatively when attending church and on formal occasions.
Mennonites astonishingly produce over half of the dairy products and at least a quarter of the beef for Paraguay, despite being no more than one percent of the population. They have large agricultural storage and processing facilities scattered in their colonies.
Each colony pools their land, resources, and labor into co-ops, achieving economies of scale.
At home and in the community, they speak Plautdietsch, an archaic dialect of East Low German laced with Dutch, Prussian, and Russian loanwords. Children are taught in Standard High German.
The following is for those interested in the history of the Mennonites and how they came to Paraguay:
In 1525, a group in Zurich broke away from mainstream Protestantism. They were nicknamed Anabaptists (meaning “re-baptizers”) because they rejected infant baptism, only consenting adults could receive this rite. They also believed they must follow the literal words and actions of Jesus, who preached nonviolence and love for one’s enemies, so they were avowed pacifists. Their name comes from Menno Simons, a converted Catholic priest.
The Mennonites eventually migrated to the Vistula Delta region of Prussia to escape religious persecution. From there, many went to Russia (invited by Empress Catherine the Great in a 1786 manifesto) and others to Canada as their freedom in Prussia dissipated. Eventually their new hosts also stripped away their privileges including that schools must teach in the national language and not German.
Paraguay suffered huge depopulation (especially males), destroyed infrastructure and financial collapse after a devastating war against the triple alliance of Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay from 1864 to 1870. In fact, the country could have disappeared except that neither Brazil or Argentina wanted the other to control the Paraguay River valley.
The Mennonites played a critically important role in the final phase of Paraguay’s repopulation timeline, emigrating to the virtually empty El Chaco region after the Paraguayan Parliament in 1921 approved that the denomination is exempt from military service, has the right to run their own German-language schools, has control of their local government and courts and was exempt from certain tariffs and taxes.
During the war with Bolivia over control of El Chaco from 1932 to 1935, the Mennonites supplied the Paraguayan military with thousands of tons of fresh beef, butter, milk, cheese, and vegetables at fixed prices not increased by wartime scarcity. They also allowed the Paraguay military to use the dirt roads they built and their land became the terminus of a railway where soldiers, weapons, and heavy artillery were unloaded and transferred to troops in battle. These actions did not violate their pacifist beliefs.
Starting in the late 1930s, certain Mennonites colonies, usually with differing cultural practices, expanded from El Chaco to Eastern Paraguay through massive land purchases.
Final Thoughts
Usually when I’m at the end of a visit to a country, I take a deep breath, hurry to the airport and rest for a few days at home. For Paraguay, I thought Khadija and I should reflect upon our experiences, in situ.
As Khadija worked for the UN, she often thinks about the country in terms of development and Paraguay was no exception.
For me, I try to unravel how the country operates and what stood out or was surprising. Here’s a few minutes about my thoughts on Paraguay.
What was evident to me is that Paraguay has a lot to offer, but it exposes itself gradually and often when you aren’t expecting it. After being there, even for a week, I learned a great deal about its history with frequent wars, the various ethnic groups who live there, the role of rivers in the economy and so much more. I’m really looking forward to returning and going to El Chaco and further exploring the Jesuit Route!
