The Samoan Islands are a few small volcanic islands, just specks in the vast Pacific Ocean. Yet these tiny volcanic outposts developed a culture that has spread far beyond their shores and is known as the “Cradle of Polynesian Civilization”. Archaeological evidence suggests that the original Polynesian culture originated in Samoa around 3,000 years ago and spread as far as Hawaii, Easter Island, and New Zealand. This culture remains robust, despite colonization, religious conversion, and globalization.
The islands also have many beautiful beaches with opportunities for swimming, snorkeling, and diving. In addition, there are hiking trails of all levels of difficulty, many to scenic waterfalls. There are also national parks, rainforest preserves, and marine sanctuaries with amazing landscapes, native flora and fauna, and migrating birds.
The Samoan Islands have an added twist; there are two governments only 64 km / 40 mi apart, but straddle opposite sides of the International Date Line. American Samoa became a U.S. territory in 1899, while the country of Samoa became independent in 1962. Flying from Samoa to American Samoa, you go back to yesterday; the other way, you go to tomorrow. This “time travel” alone is a good reason to visit both.
Why We Went to Samoa?
My wife, Khadija, and I were invited by our good Australian friends Susan and Gary to visit them in Samoa while they were working there. We finally made the trip to see them in the nick of time, in June 2023, as it was their last week there!
Of course, we were having such a fun and interesting time, we didn’t remember to take a photo of the four of us until our last night in the house, which was mostly occupied by packed boxes. The result was this grainy photo.
Where is Samoa?
Samoa, officially the Independent State of Samoa, and American Samoa lie south of the equator, about halfway between Hawaii and New Zealand, in the Polynesian region of the Pacific Ocean.
They are approximately 900 km / 550 mi northeast of Tonga, 1,100 km / 700 mi northeast of Fiji, and southeast of Tuvalu; and 4,200 km / 2,600 mi southwest of Hawaii.
How to Get Around Samoa?
Samoa is about the size of Luxembourg and smaller than Rhode Island. The country has two large islands, Upolu and Savaii, and eight minuscule ones. The capital of Apia is in Upolu.
American Samoa is only a tad bigger than Brooklyn and consists of five volcanic islands and two coral atolls. Almost all of the nearly 50,000 residents live on the island of Tutuila, where the capital of Pago Pago is located. American Samoa is the only inhabited U.S. territory in the Southern Hemisphere
For Samoa, we rented a car as the distances are short and the main roads are in good shape. In American Samoa, we used a guide with a car, but could have more cheaply used a taxi and made it to the same places. We were there for only a few hours, visiting Tutuila, which was not enough time to rent a car.
There was a ten-hour ferry each way, which leaves Apia on Thursday and returns on Saturday; this wasn’t an alternative as we did not want to stay more than a partial day in American Samoa. Instead, we flew round-trip from Apia to Pago Pago on the same day. The 35-minute trip is especially worth doing to see the volcanoes and rugged and lush mountains of Upolu.
Here’s a map of some of the places we visited.
Who are the Samoans?
The Samoan people are descended from the Lapita culture that spanned from 1600 to 500 BC, known for its distinctive pottery. Their eastward expansion across the Pacific brought them to Samoa and Tonga around 1000 BC, establishing a foundation for subsequent Polynesian cultures.
Europeans, including missionaries and whaling ship sailors, started arriving in Samoa in the 1700s and increasingly more in the 1800s. In 1900, Western Samoa became a German protectorate, and the United States took possession of Tutuila Island and smaller islands in the east, now known as American Samoa. German rule ended with the start of World War I, when New Zealand forces occupied the colony in 1914. New Zealand became Western Samoa’s trustee during World War I until independence. In 1997, Western Samoa officially shortened its name to Samoa.
Samoa has a population of about 200,000, and American Samoa has about 50,000. There are approximately 200,000 Samoans in the diaspora, primarily in New Zealand, Australia, and the U.S. Ethnic Samoans are about 95% of the population of Samoa and 85% of American Samoa, plus each has more individuals who are partially Samoan.
All this historical and demographic information is good to know, but the best way to experience the Samoan Culture is to meet the Samoans. On our first day in Apia, we met many genial Samoans after an Independence Day Parade by the harbor, including…
Apia taxicab drivers:
This family and friends:
Three recently graduated nurses:
An 8th-grade class:
Three young men from St. Joseph School:
From our experience, Samoans are welcoming and friendly, plus they like having their picture taken!
How Long to Spend in Samoa?
To travel through the islands of Upolu, Savaii, and Tutuila at a measured pace takes at least a week, but you could rush and do the highlights in four days. If you want to partake in hiking, water sports, or just lying on the beach, you can spend more time.
Is Samoa Safe?
Samoa has a low crime rate and is generally safe for travelers, although occasionally muggings and robberies can occur, particularly in and around Apia’s downtown area and near the harbor front. Like everywhere, you must use common sense and be aware of your surroundings, such as being in a bar with drunk patrons late at night.
If you are walking in residential and rural areas, be careful with packs of dogs. If you see them, look for rocks and sticks to drive them away.
Is Samoa Expensive?
Samoa is less expensive than Hawaii and Fiji, although there are all levels of price ranges for hotels and resorts. Generally, Savaii is a little less expensive than Upolu, and both are far cheaper than American Samoa.
The tālā is the currency of Samoa, and its symbol is $, or WS$ (for Western Samoa). Be sure to check your credit card receipts to ensure that you have been charged the right amount. We had an error on our credit card charge that took over two weeks and a fair amount of effort to resolve. American Samoa uses U.S. dollars.
Where to Stay in Samoa?
In Apia, we stayed with our friends, and in Savaii, we stayed in comfortable places on the water for between $50 and $100 / night. This was in June, a time when tourists come as the climate is dry, but not the peak from July to September.
What Languages Are Spoken in Samoa?
Samoan is the indigenous Polynesian language spoken by Samoans and is the official language in Samoa and American Samoa, along with English.
English is spoken by many younger Samoans and many in the hospitality industry. You can get by with just English, but knowing a few local words is greatly appreciated by locals.
What to Eat in Samoa?
The food in Samoa is an intersection of traditional ingredients (fish, fruits, vegetables, roots, etc.) and foreign influences, including Chinese, German, and American.
At a supermarket, Susan bought breadfruit (the size of a mango with a bumpy green skin which turns yellowish when ripe), which is tasteless but can be delicious with the right sauces and German buns (a type of steamed bun often filled with caramelized grated coconut or coconut jam).
Panikeke are fritters but called pancakes and are eaten for breakfast. The tasty balls of deep-fried dough consist of flour, sugar, salt, eggs, milk, and baking powder.
Coconuts are ubiquitous, with the milk consumed by a straw from the shell, as well as bananas of various shapes. We had delicious papaya, but unfortunately, mangoes were out of season.
Grocery stores have aisles of chips, cookies, and other high-calorie snacks, which are too large a component in the Samoan diet and contribute to obesity.
Upolu Island
Upolu is smaller than Savaii but more populated and includes Apia, the capital and largest city by far. The island is about 75 km / 45 mi long and 25 km / 15 mi at its widest point. In the interior are volcanoes up to 1,100 m / 3,600 ft and dense forest. The coasts have stretches of rich soil ideal for agriculture. There is a series of connected highways where you can drive around the coast, except in the eastern tip.
Samoa Cultural Village
The Samoa Culture Village in Apia is worth visiting, whether it’s the beginning of your visit to become orientated or the end to fill in gaps in what you learned. It has music and dance performances, traditional basket weaving, and an “umu” meal where food is cooked on the ground over hot volcanic stones.
The most fascinating part for me was watching a man being tattooed. Samoa and Tonga were probably the main originators of this art form in Polynesia. It’s called tatau in Samoa and tatatau in Tonga. The process takes several hours to three months, is extremely painful, and can take up to a year for the skin to heal. It’s normal for men to suffer in silence, and in many cases, it’s a rite of passage. The tattooer is an artist and has quite a bit of discretion on the design.
We weren’t allowed to photograph the process. However, during a cultural performance, we saw a good example of the traditional masculine tattoo, called pe’a, which can go from the legs to the back and side of the torso.
Western Christian missionaries felt tattooing was unholy and tried to eliminate the practice, but to no avail. Now you can see tattoos with Christian iconography.
Apia Cathedral and Christianity in Samoa
The Roman Catholic Immaculate Conception Cathedral is located across the street from the Samoa Cultural Village. It was finished in 1857 but suffered considerable damage during a 2009 earthquake. It was rebuilt and reopened in 2014. The architectural style is mostly European with a prominent rosette, various types of Gothic window frames, stained glass windows, statues of Caucasian biblical figures, and fluted columns. On the right is a sizable sign with Jesus over “Jesus, I trust in you”. I saw this sign throughout Samoa.
However, with closer inspection, especially on the inside, I saw many Samoan influences, such as the bottom of the interior dome has Polynesian-looking figures in the Last Supper. The ceiling wood carving represents the pe’a tattoo, another sign that Christianity has accepted this practice.
Christianity is taken seriously in the country. Samoa has over 400 churches, quite a number for the small population, and church attendance on Sunday is high.
A majority of churches are one of these four denominations, from largest to smallest: Congregational Christian Church of Samoa, Roman Catholic, Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (Mormons), and Methodist. There is a scattering of others, mainly Protestant evangelical denominations.
Clock Tower
Except possibly for the cathedral, the most recognizable landmark in Apia is the Clock Tower, which is regarded as the central point of the city. It was given to the Samoan people by the wealthy businessman Olaf Nelson. It was erected in 1928 as a memorial for his son, who had died in the 1918 influenza epidemic, and as a monument to the Samoan-born soldiers who fought in WWI, primarily under the New Zealand Expeditionary Force.
Fiafia
A fiafia (happy get together) is a wildly entertaining night of traditional Samoan dancing, singing, music, and food which have been passed down the generations for more than 3,000 years, ever since the first Samoan people arrived on the islands. We saw one at the Le Manumea Hotel, and without a doubt, the highlight was the fire dancing, which is athletic and dangerous.
While tourists flock to this, Samoans, especially ones visiting from the diaspora, also attend.
The host was apparently a faafafine (meaning “in the manner of a woman”) who are individuals male at birth but embrace a feminine gender role.
They are not cross-dressers but considered a third gender. Some families raise a son as a faafafine to help with traditional female responsibilities such as cooking and cleaning. Other families choose to do this because a male child acts especially feminine. These individuals are not outcasts but are accepted in society.
Independence Day Celebration
When we awoke on June 1, we were informed that today was the end of 60 years of Samoa independence and the celebration of the 61st Independence Day. There were parades and
a huge celebration for the Samoans and visiting dignitaries, such as the Prime Minister of Fiji.
While there, I never tired of watching traditional dancing.
Robert Louis Stevenson House
In 1890, Robert Lewis Stevenson, the Scottish author of Treasure Island (1883), Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde (1886), and Kidnapped (1893), settled in Samoa and lived there for his last four years, dying from a stroke at age 44. He was planning on touring the Pacific islands for more material for his prolific writings, but because of lifelong respiratory illness, he settled here as he thought the climate would be beneficial. He is buried next to the massive house he built.
He was able to afford such a lavish home because his Scottish family was affluent, and his wealth dramatically increased from sales of his novels written before he moved to Samoa.
I was excited to see his house, now a museum, as I’ve read the three previously mentioned books multiple times throughout my life. I was taken by the portrait of him, still wearing a conservative suit. Based on pictures in the house, the whole family dressed in Victorian fashion despite the tropical heat.
Bahai House of Worship
The Bahai House of Worship for the Pacific is one of eight continental temples spread across the world. I was surprised that it was here because it’s such a Christian country. The choice of Samoa was influenced by the fact that its head of state from 1970 to 2007, Malietoa Tanumafili II, converted to the Bahai faith in 1973.
I’d been to the one in Wilmette, Illinois, which has a spectacular design. The Samoa temple, situated on 8 hectares / 20 acres of beautifully landscaped land, opened in 1984 and is a remarkable structure with a distinctive nine-sided circular shape.
To Suva Ocean Trench
To Sua (Big Hole) is a huge ocean trench that is partially hidden by an unassuming, blue picket fence and a tastefully landscaped lawn. It looks like a sinkhole hole but it’s a trench connected to the ocean by an underground lava tunnel. There’s a ladder to access the 30m / 100 ft abyss.
Those physically able to descend (by the slippery ladder or leaping for the intrepid) are rewarded by cool, salty ocean water. Even non-swimmers can enjoy it by hanging onto ropes tied to the platform at the bottom of the ladder. Both visitors and locals enjoy an opportunity for a reprieve from the hot climate. The water level varies with the tides, and swimming into the tunnel to the oceans is certifiably dangerous.
There’s a stunning view of the coastline with crashing waves from the ridge. Accessible by stairs, the shore has tranquil pools, natural arches, and lava surfaces.
Driving Around Upolo Island
There’s a network of connected roads forming a loop around most of Upolu. They go through bucolic landscapes, small towns, and scenic coastlines.
Savaii Island
Savaii (SAH-vie-ee, similar to Hawaii) is the largest island in Samoa (80 km / 50 mi long and 40 km / 25 miles at its widest point). It’s known for its volcanic features, traditional villages, and attractive beaches. It’s slower paced than Upolu, which enhances its allure. Many parts, especially in the west and center, are undeveloped and peaceful. There’s a ring road that facilitates smooth driving around the entire coast.
Alofaaga Blowhole
The frequent water eruptions of the Alofaaga Blowholes are a result of ocean water gathering in tubes and chambers, then exploding into the air from the pressure of incoming waves. The height of the spouting water can be as high as 20 m / 65 ft during high tide.
While the visuals are impressive, feeling the force of the eruption is incredible.
Mupagoa Waterfall
Savaii and Upolo have many waterfalls, mainly cascading down the slopes of mountains, of which we saw only two. The Mupagoa Waterfall was different, emptying from a river into the ocean, and the one I liked the most.
Cape Mulinuu
Cape Mulinuu on Savaii is Samoa’s most western point and has the distinction of amazing sunsets.
We had the beach to ourselves and wandered around for about half an hour until after sunset. There are several small archaeological points of interest which we saw few, consisting of modest holes and mounds.
Saleaula Lava Fields
The Saleaula Lava Fields have layers of solidified lava as deep as 120 m / 400 ft. The lava flow from the 1905-1911 Mt Matavanu eruptions covered 40 sq mi / 100 km2 and buried five villages. A former Catholic church was decimated by the lava, though the walls somehow remained standing.
Perhaps there was some divine intervention as the “virgin grave” of a nun was surrounded by the lava but remained accessible via a hole.
Home Burial Sites
In Samoan culture, family is supremely important. The connection is not only to the living but to ancestors. Many homes in Savaii have family graves in front.
A large and decorative display usually indicates that the person was an important chief in the village.
Fale Pavilions
The Samoan word “fale” can refer to various types of buildings, but also specifically means community pavilions. These structures usually have columns and no walls and serve as spaces for neighborhood events, places for visitors to sleep, emergency shelters for cyclones and tsunamis, and other community functions. In Savaii, we found them throughout the island with concentrations in some villages.
I greatly admire the Samoan way of life, which emphasizes communal living and respect for tradition.
American Samoa
We flew from Apia International Airport to American Samoa in a 9-passenger plane. Our landing at Pago Pago International Airport was a scenic arrival as it’s located between lush mountains and the ocean.
The island of Tutuila is almost all mountains, including Rainmaker Mountain.
The huge and deep Pago Pago Harbor is one reason why the American military has a presence here. This is the only inhabited U.S. possession in the Southern Hemisphere. Perhaps as many as 70% of the adult population is or was employed by the U.S. military.
The National Park of American Samoa was the highlight for us because of the dramatic scenery of waves crashing against the towering sea cliffs…
and rocky outcrops such as Pola Island.
We saw part of the park on the eastern end of Tutuila, but it extends to Ofu and Tau islands.
The Visitor Center is outside of the National Park and has good information on the flora, fauna, and geology of American Samoa.
Some impressions: 1) it’s very similar with Samoa, as you would expect, with the same cuisine, numerous churches and family graves in front of the house, 2) it’s more cramped as the land mass is so small, 3) American influence produces a higher standard of living and employment opportunities for residents but it doesn’t have the same elusive charm as Samoa and 4) people living here are obsessed with owning trucks and SUVs which are expensive to ship in.
Of note, American Samoans have U.S. passports but are “nationals” rather than citizens. The main difference is that they cannot vote if living in the U.S.
Final Thoughts
While at the fiafia, Gary and Susan arranged for Grace, Jason, and Lillie, other extreme travelers who happened to be in Samoa, to join us.
Khadija and I travel five or six months a year, but we pale in comparison to these three who travel all year round. We subsequently met Jason and Grace in Tonga and traveled with them in Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan.
While travel exposes us to new cultures and landscapes, there’s an added benefit of meeting many other extreme travelers, some of whom have become good friends.
Before our times of traveling extensively, we mainly associated with work colleagues and neighbors who often had a similar background to us. The great thing about extreme travelers is that they come from all backgrounds and professions. So, our network of fellow travelers is an interesting mix of folks whom we wouldn’t have gotten to know previously. Our fellow travelers relate to our experiences and appreciate them, which deepens our relationships.
This was the first time we met Jason, Grace, and Lillie. We know that on future trips, we will keep meeting other intrepid travelers!
