{"id":13387,"date":"2022-01-25T06:07:22","date_gmt":"2022-01-25T11:07:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/exploringed.com\/?p=13387"},"modified":"2022-11-09T03:35:26","modified_gmt":"2022-11-09T08:35:26","slug":"germany-dresden","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/exploringed.com\/germany-dresden\/","title":{"rendered":"Dresden \u2013 City of Magnificent Architecture"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Dresden was founded as a town about 900 years ago. Over the centuries, it\u2019s been a center of artistic achievement in porcelain, painting, classical music, literature and particularly architecture. The historic city has been dubbed Florence on the Elbe and is known for its Baroque buildings.<\/span><\/p>

Much of Dresden was destroyed by Allied bombs in 1945. After WWII, Dresden was in East Germany and construction was dominated by huge, blocky, Soviet-style buildings. Many of the famous ones, such as the symbolic Frauenkirche<\/span>, were left in ruins. After the fall of Communism in 1989, the city has steadily recreated the historic area, a process which continues to this day.<\/span><\/p>

It\u2019s a treat for everyone, from those who don\u2019t know or care about the difference between Ionic and Corinthian columns, to students of architectural history, to walk through and admire the impressive buildings, bridges and gardens. This post provides an efficient way of seeing the architectural gems.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Notes on Architectural Styles<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Dresden is known as the Baroque City, a style which is theatrical and grandiose with domelike ceilings, rows of pillars and splashy frescoes and statues. It was originally introduced by the Catholic Church to keep adherents from joining Protestant churches and was especially popular in the 17<\/span>th<\/span> and 18<\/span>th<\/span> centuries<\/span>.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

Dresden also has several other styles represented, including Romanesque (massive stonework, round arches, and large towers; principally from 6<\/span>th<\/span> to 11<\/span>th<\/span> centuries), Renaissance (inspired by classical antiquity and emphasizing symmetry, proportion and geometry; notably 14<\/span>th<\/span> to 17<\/span>th<\/span> century), Rococo (excessive and lighthearted decorations with a light color palette, prevalent in the 18<\/span>th<\/span> century especially in France), Neoclassical (revival of Greek and Roman architecture; heyday in the 18<\/span>th<\/span> and 19<\/span>th<\/span> centuries), and even Modernism (designs based on 20<\/span>th<\/span> century technologies of construction with glass, steel, and reinforced concrete).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

Interestingly, while there I didn\u2019t see any Gothic building (cavernous spaces, exaggerated arches, elongated and pointed windows and sometimes flying buttresses; dominant from the 12<\/span>th<\/span> to 16<\/span>th<\/span> centuries) nor found a significant one while researching online, although there have been buildings with this style that no longer exist.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Why We Went to Dresden<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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In August and September 2021, my wife Khadija and I went on a\u00a0 <\/span>five-week drive through Eastern Europe<\/span><\/a> and visited many of the great cities of the region. We weren\u2019t planning on stopping in Dresden, but saw it\u2019s on the way to Berlin from Prague. Folks we met at a wedding in Munich said we shouldn\u2019t miss it, so we squeezed in almost two full days.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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We were there on a Sunday and Monday morning and the museums were either closed or certain exhibitions needed reservations. So we were confined to walking the streets and inadvertently it turned into an architectural tour.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Is Dresden Safe?<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Dresden is a very safe city, especially in the historic section we were in. Here, as everywhere you travel, employ basic safety precautions and use common sense to avoid problems.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Is Dresden Expensive?<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Germany in general and Dresden in particular are not expensive when compared to popular destinations in Western Europe. We had dinners between US$20 and US$30\/person in tourist restaurants. We booked our hotel last minute in the heart of the historic area and paid about $250\/night, which is quite high for us. However, if we researched the options more carefully and booked earlier, we could\u2019ve saved money.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Where to Eat in Dresden<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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We were there only two nights and ate on the pedestrian Wei\u00dfe Gasse (gasse is alley and the letter \u00df, called eszett, is sometimes transliterated as \u201css\u201d in English). You recognize it by the Fountain of the Goose Thief. <\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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It has both ethnic and traditional restaurants. We dined at <\/span>Kinh-Do<\/span><\/a>, a Vietnamese restaurant with fast service and low prices, and <\/span>F\u00f6rster’s<\/span><\/a> specializing in regional dishes and wines.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

For one breakfast, we ate healthy dishes at <\/span>Johanna’s Cafe<\/span><\/a> where we watched entertainers and wandering tourists on Neumarkt (New Market Square).<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Neumarkt\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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How to Get Around in Dresden<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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We confined ourselves to the historic area where everything is within easy walking distance. Here\u2019s a map of some of the architectural sites we saw.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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In Europe, we usually take free walking tours where you compensate the guide by tips. While we were there, none were available in English. So, we purchased <\/span>Dresden in One Day \u2013 A City Tour<\/span><\/a> from the very helpful Tourist Office and self-guided. Though the book thoroughly met our needs, it was sometimes a challenge to match English locations to the German names on the map. This post highlights most of the main attractions and places that caught my eye.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Altmarkt Square<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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We started and ended at Altmarkt, the main square in the historic city. It has many open-air markets including the Christmas Market, which has been in existence since 1434. Here\u2019s a view from the nearby tower of Kreuzkirche (Church of the Holy Cross).<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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The square and much of the historic city were destroyed by 1,249 British and U.S. bombers in February,1945. Many victims were cremated by fire; thus the attack became known as the \u201cfire bombings\u201d. Historians estimated the death toll between 20,000 and 25,000. It was a horrific event and many wondered why it was done to such a cultural center. Dresden had few war-related facilities, while major industrial areas in the suburbs were not targeted.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

The American author, Kurt Vonnegut, was a prisoner in Dresden in a slaughterhouse during the bombings. Ironically, he was protected there. When he escaped in the chaos after the bombings, he was startled by an eerie lunar landscape with buildings flattened and human remains everywhere, intact, in pieces and in ashes. He wrote \u201c<\/span>Slaughterhouse 5<\/span><\/a>\u201d with the main character, Billy Pilgrim, enduring a similar experience.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

Inconspicuously in the cobblestone, there\u2019s a memorial with this inscription: “After the air attack on Dresden on February 13\u201314 1945, the corpses of 6,865 people were burned on this spot.”<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Since 2010, thousands have gathered every year on February 13th to form a human chain around the old town, to symbolically protect it.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Kreuzkirche \u2013 Church of the Holy Cross<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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On the corner of Altmarkt is Dresden\u2019s main Protestant church, rebuilt in 1955 in a mostly Romanesque style.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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It has a simple interior and rooms used for exhibits, such as the Allied bombing. It\u2019s known for its excellent acoustics and the performances of the famous Boys\u2019 Choir. It has a tower, which for \u20ac5 you can climb the stairs to the top for a panoramic view of the historic area.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Julius Otto Memorial<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Fittingly, next to Kreuzkirche, there\u2019s a monument for beloved, 18<\/span>th<\/span> century chorus composer and music teacher, Julius Otto.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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The four young boys, representing the Boys Choir, surround a column dedicated to Otto. Later, a more modern fifth boy was added.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Neues Rathaus \u2013 New City Hall<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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It took five years to build the New City Hall, from 1905-1910. The monumental, Renaissance building is clad with sandstone and features an octagonal tower. It was only partially destroyed during the Allied bombing. Outside the Ratskeller Restaurant, is a bronze statue of Bacchus riding a drunk donkey.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Bacchus\u2019 left toe is polished from being rubbed frequently; allegedly it brings luck.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Polizedirektion \u2013 Police Department<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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This may be the most impressive police station I\u2019ve ever seen. <\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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The Baroque building was finished in 1900 after five years of construction.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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New Synagogue<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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This synagogue was finished in 2001, replacing one that lasted 60 years. Unlike its nearby neighbors, it\u2019s a Modernist style of two cubed buildings with sandstone-like masonry and few windows<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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When I returned home, I realized I inadvertently didn\u2019t take a photo of it. Above is an image from our walking guide.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Albertinum Museum<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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This world-class museum was named after King Albert of Saxony (the German state Dresden is in) and originally an armory. In the 19<\/span>th<\/span> century, it was redesigned into a Renaissance style and converted to a museum. <\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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If we had another day, we would have spent a few hours here marveling at their Italian Renaissance and Dutch Masters paintings and the Porcelain Collection (Dresden was the first European city to master the manufacturing process which originated in China over 1,400 years ago).<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Br\u00fchl's Terrace<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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If you need a rest, Br\u00fchl’s Terrace is just the place.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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There\u2019s a great view of the Elbe River and the other side of the city, as well as a landing area for small cruise boats and barges. A prominent feature is the Dolphin Water Fountain.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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HfBK - Academy of Fine Arts<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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I loved this gold statue of Fama (Fame) on the glass dome (locally nicknamed \u201cthe lemon squeezer\u201d) of the Academy of Fine Arts.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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The official name of the three-building school is Hochschule f\u00fcr Bildende K\u00fcnste Dresden.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Cosel Palace<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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This is a magnificent Rococo building and an example of where the nobility lived.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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It was yet another casualty of the Allied bombings and rebuilt in 1977 and 2000.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Frauenkirche - Lutheran Church of our Lady<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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This is perhaps Dresden\u2019s most famous landmark and considered the most important Protestant Baroque church in Germany.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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During the Allied bombing, flying sparks caused the building to burn from the inside and two days later it collapsed. The East German government left it a ruin as a warning against war. In 1991, the Synod of the Lutheran Church of Saxony voted to rebuild it. In 2005, after <\/span>\u20ac180 million in cost, <\/span>it was completed and consecrated. The interior is an exact copy of the original. The new cross on the spire was financed entirely by British donations and fabricated by Alan Smith, whose father had flown one of the planes which bombed the city. In New Market Square, by the church, is a statue of Martin Luther.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Johanneum - Transport Museum<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Johanneum is an excellent example of a symmetrical, Renaissance building.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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For over a hundred years, this has been the home of the Transport Museum which displays the history of public transportation in Saxony.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Furstenzug \u2013 Procession of the Princes<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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For me, this was the most jaw-dropping thing I saw in Dresden, as I can\u2019t think of anything like it anywhere else. This is the ancestral gallery of the Saxony House of Wettin, one of the oldest in Europe, from Conrad the Great (1127) to King George (1904).<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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There are 94 figures. Besides kings, there are queens, nobles, scientists, artists, soldiers, children, farmers, horses and two greyhounds. It\u2019s about 100 meters \/ 325 feet long and painted on porcelain tiles.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Kurf\u00fcrstlicher Reissiger Stall \u2013 Stable Yard<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The Stable Yard connects the Johanneum to the George Building of the Royal Palace and is the inner wall of the Procession of Princes. <\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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It was completed in 1591 and used to host jousting matches, thus the two 6-meter \/ 20-foot jousting poles in the middle. The most prominent feature is the open hallway with mounted deer and ram heads in-between arches.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Providentiae Memor (Keep Providence in Mind) Passageway<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The Georgenbau is the Dresden historic city exit to the bridge over the Elbe River. It\u2019s located between the Royal Palace and the Stable Yards. It\u2019s a Renaissance building completed in 1535.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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On the face of the building, there\u2019s the inscription “Providentiae Memor” meaning \u201cKeep Providence in Mind.\u201d\u00a0 This was the national slogan of Saxony.<\/span><\/p>

In the passageway, there\u2019s “Per Invidiam Diaboli Mors Intravit In Orbs” meaning \u201cthrough the devil’s envy, death entered into the world.\u201d This passageway was destroyed by the Allied bombing and rebuilt in the 1960’s.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Kathedrale Sanctissimae Trinitatis - Cathedral of the Holy Trinity<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Augustus II, known as Augustus the Strong, was the Elector of Saxony (one of seven who selected the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire) from 1694 to his death in 1733. Most of that time, he was also the King of Poland and Grand Duke of Lithuania when he converted to Catholicism. His successor had this Baroque church built as one of the largest in Germany. In the interior, there\u2019s a marble altar, paintings, candelabras, crucifix and organ \u2013 common features but in unusual splendor.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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