{"id":18889,"date":"2024-01-29T03:59:13","date_gmt":"2024-01-29T08:59:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/exploringed.com\/?p=18889"},"modified":"2024-01-31T05:46:54","modified_gmt":"2024-01-31T10:46:54","slug":"south-african-road-trip-part-1-johannesburg-soweto-kruger-and-maputo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/exploringed.com\/south-african-road-trip-part-1-johannesburg-soweto-kruger-and-maputo\/","title":{"rendered":"South African Road Trip \u2013 Part 1: Johannesburg, Soweto, Kruger and Maputo"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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South Africa is an incredible country with a diverse population, rugged landscapes, ocean coasts, and extensive wildlife. It also continues to have volatile politics and remains the economic engine for the southern tip of the continent. While it often dominates the headlines for the region, in-the-east Mozambique, Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) and Lesotho are neighbors, each with their own vibrant culture and complex history. One of the great African road trips is visiting these four countries in one\u2019s vehicle, seeing the unfolding of the scenery, and interacting with local folks.<\/span><\/p>

\u00a0<\/p>

This two-week trip in July of 2022 started in Johannesburg, then proceeded to Kruger National Park, Maputo the capital of Mozambique, Eswatini, Durban South Africa, Lesotho, Clarens South Africa and back to Johannesburg. Be sure to see South African Road Trip \u2013 Part 2: Eswatini, Durban, Lesotho and Clarens<\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Where Are These Countries?<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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They are in the southeast tip of Africa, bordering Botswana and Zimbabwe. Eswatini and Lesotho are landlocked, the former between Mozambique and South Africa and the latter surrounded by South Africa.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Why We Went to Southern Africa<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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My wife Khadija and I had this trip planned in 2020 but had to cancel because of Covid travel restrictions. Almost as soon as we were allowed, in July 2022, we jumped on the opportunity and quickly arranged it, as we had both been in the country of South Africa only a day and hadn\u2019t been to the others.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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How Long to Spend in South Africa and Neighboring Countries?<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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For our route, we spent two weeks which was adequate, but we easily could have spent twice that, especially if we went hiking in the mountains or took a more leisurely pace. <\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Are South Africa and Neighboring Countries Safe?<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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The big cities of South Africa are not known as safe. While in Johannesburg and Durban, we were invariably told to watch out. It\u2019s hard to judge whether this was an excess of caution or justified. We rented a car and drove for two weeks in South Africa and neighboring countries and had no safety issues.<\/span><\/p>

Maputo was very safe, and we walked the streets late at night. Lesotho and <\/span>Eswatini<\/span> didn\u2019t seem to have safety concerns. Of course, it\u2019s important to use common sense and avoid potentially risky situations, especially in an environment you aren\u2019t unfamiliar with.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Are South Africa and Neighboring Countries Expensive?<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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We were there when the US dollar was strong and food and lodging were not expensive. South Africa and Mozambique roughly cost the same for travel and are more expensive than the other two countries. <\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Where to Stay in South Africa and Neighboring Countries.<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Each location had all levels of accommodations.<\/span><\/p>

An important decision is whether to stay in a luxury lodge in Kruger National Park. Here you can easily spend $500 \/ night or more, but you are mostly paying for excellent access to a wide variety of wildlife. It\u2019s such a memorable experience and we found it worthwhile if you can afford it.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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However, you can drive through Kruger for a day, strictly staying on the designated roads which limits what you would see, for about $7\/person. <\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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How to Get Around South Africa<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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We rented a compact car from Hertz in South Africa and thought it would be adequate because we were told the roads were good where we were going. However, there were periodic rough roads, including most of Lesotho\u2019s, that we should have taken an SUV.<\/span><\/p>

In this part of the world, it\u2019s typical to tip the person pumping gas for you.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Dealing with Hertz was a dreadful experience. After we returned the car, they outrageously charged ZAR 50,000 ($3,300) for unspecified damage without giving an itemization of the charges. The rounded number indicated they were just pulling it out of thin air. There was nothing wrong with the operation of the car and we saw no obvious damage to the body. I contested the bill through the credit card company. The company initially reversed it but reinstated it because the South African correspondent bank said Hertz had contractual rights to make it. I disputed again through a written letter but they did not reverse the charges. I called Hertz International and after asking them several times, they reluctantly agreed to contact the Johannesburg office.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

This was extremely frustrating. Part of the reason I rented from Hertz was I thought it would be much less likely for them to participate in unethical behavior. This experience is making me think that I should purchase zero deductible insurance from car rental companies in the future, even though it\u2019s often expensive, to avoid a mess like this.<\/span><\/p>

After another two months of waiting, Hertz gave me a full refund because there was a \u201cbilling error.\u201d This probably happened because they had no documentation of what the charges were. Also my dogged pursuit and, I would like to think, my persuasive letters also helped.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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What Languages Are Spoken in South Africa and Mozambique?<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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South Africans speak over 30 languages with Zulu being the first language for about a quarter of the population and was especially prevalent where we were. English is the language of government, commerce and media; used in the hospitality industry and widely spoken with some proficiency in urban areas.<\/span><\/p>

Mozambicans speak Portuguese and local languages, but English isn\u2019t common.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Soweto<\/h2>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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We stayed over two days in Johannesburg but mainly visited the township of Soweto. We had a hotel room in Rosebank, a suburb north of Johannesburg, and walked around a little bit in the nearby malls and drove around. Besides that, we took a full-day tour of Soweto with Barney Smith of Funtime Tours (WhatsApp 0832526879). On the way to Soweto, we passed by Nelson Mandela’s last house.<\/span><\/p>

Soweto is the biggest township in the country and an important center that revolted against apartheid. It was created as a \u201ctownship\u201d in the 1930s separating Blacks from Whites. Usually, a township was separated from white areas by barriers such as a river, railway track, industrial area or highway. <\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Cooling Towers<\/h3>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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The two colorfully painted cooling towers of a decommissioned, coal-fired power station are a prominent landmark in Soweto.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Matchbox House Neighborhoods<\/h3>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Many people in the townships originally lived in \u201cmatchbox\u201d houses which were only one room and very cramped for families. <\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Some matchbox neighborhoods are impoverished, others are middle-class and have renovated and enlarged houses (a few to a McMansion size).<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Shanty Towns<\/h3>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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There are several makeshift shanty towns scattered around Soweto. <\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Soweto\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Some of the residents are illegal immigrants, others are those who have public housing, but rent it out to others.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Regina Mundi Roman Catholic Church<\/h3>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Regina Mundi (“Queen of the World”) is the largest Roman Catholic church in South Africa. Many demonstrators fled there in the 1976 demonstrations to the mandate that Afrikaans be the main language of instruction in school (the proverbial match that broke the camel\u2019s back). The police entered the church and fired live ammunition. Some bullet holes are still visible. Upstairs there\u2019s an exhibit of the apartheid era. Nelson Mandela has been elevated to saint or even savior status in South Africa, as shown on this stained glass.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Regina\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Nelson Mandela House Before Prison <\/h3>\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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We went to Nelson Mandela\u2019s home on Vilakazi Street on the day of his birthday. He was born in 1918 and lived there in a matchbox house for 11 years before 27 years of imprisonment at age 44. Vilakazi is the only street in the world where two Nobel Peace Laureates lived (Mandela and Bishop Desmond Tutu). On the street were extremely fit performers dressed in traditional Zulu costumes.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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